Train to Sapa, Vietnam-Dream Sleeping

Vietnam, 2008

Sometimes, if I am not falling asleep, I travel into the past and imagine sleeping in a special place—a tent nestled high among the rocks in Erongo, Namibia; a cabin in a stationary train car in the wilderness of Hudson Bay with a window looking out at the white on white of an arctic fox, pausing before trotting off into the blowing snow. Trains rattling through the night create a special experience—rocked to sleep by clattering over the rails. Sleeping on the overnight train to Sapa has lingered in my mind and I like to slip back there now and then.

Vietnam Railways (Photo: MAS)

Our car - the Victoria Express

MAS enjoying herself in the top berth.

Wheeling our luggage along the platform, the lights of the Victoria Express welcomed us. Boarding the carriage, we found our cabin with its 4 berths—two up and two down. Each berth was covered with a white duvet and on each pillow, a hand-woven drawstring bag with small bottle of water, and other little amenities. The bathroom at the end of the car was small but elegant.

KESD lounging in her lower
 berth with a beer. (Photo: MAS)

JPD stowing his gear.

The porter provided nightcaps of our choice—Tiger beer for me and Royal Crown for the top bunk.

As the train pulled out of Hanoi, we enjoyed secretive, flashing views of the world—motorbikes lined up at intersections waiting for the train to pass, glimpses into small backyard gardens, views into living and bedrooms—gone instantly—but lingering in the mind as a prequel to sleep. Each berth a pool of light in the black; one by one the berth lights go out. Sleep is easy, the duvet light but warm and should you wake momentarily, the view and the motion lull you back to sleep for the next 8 hours.

Details: It is a 8.5 hour trip from Hanoi to Lao Cai, which is the jumping off point for Sapa. The train leaves at night and arrives in the early morning.

“The Victoria Express Train is exclusively reserved for Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa's in-house guests. To make a reservation for the Victoria Express Train, you need to complete a Victoria Express Train reservation form, that is part of the Victoria Sapa Resort & Spa’s rooms reservation form.” (http://www.victoriahotels-asia.com/eng/hotels-in-vietnam/sapa-resort-spa/victoria-express-train)

Erongo: (http://www.erongowilderness-namibia.com/index.php)

Hudson Bay: (http://www.churchillnaturetours.com/tours/bears.html)

http://www.greatwhitebeartours.com/tundra_lodge.php